fredag den 21. november 2008

a guarded ladder

Ok, I have to share this wth you guys... Yesterday, when I was going to town I saw something that would make any construction supervisor crazy, at home at least.
The main road going to town is a 2-4 lane(sometimes 6 lanes, depending on traffic) road. And when you reach Sinkor there is an arch kind of thing crossing the road. And apparently this needed to be painted, so... what do you do. You plave a man on a wooden ladder in the midle of the road, place a police guy to guide traffic around the ladder in front of it, and a guy underneath the ladder to hold it just in case... and then you send up one of those painter rolling hthings on a long stick. And wupti, there you go, you are getting the arch painted!!! I would never ever had stood on a ladder in the middle of the fucking street... and with cars running undet you all the time. This place is crazy sometimes. I saw it and made a small sound and started laughing, and so did the driver, then the driver said "oh well poverty".. Poverty... No no my friend stupidity... It's not the same... Just because you are poor, you don't need to be stupid. But well if the guy didn't die, he did make money at east, so I guess the driver is kind of right...

hehe, this morning our radiu burned down. It was kind of strange, it was plugged in (which might be the reason, I am so greatful that I still have my computer working) and suddenly smoke came out from where the TAPE was playing, and from where the cort goes into the radio... Quite an interesting experience... But my computer and our phones alle lived through it. I guess they have better wiering. :)

mandag den 17. november 2008

Robertsport, and a word of advise...

We start with the advise.. DON'T lend ut your camera in Liberia, it comes back with a broken screen a card full of virus!!!! So yo have plenty nice pictures, but you cannot get them off the memorycard... Life is a bitch!

Ok, so moveing on to my weekend!! we went to robertsport. Oh, it was very nice. I would show you pictuyres, but... I will try and get Seanans pictures later... so instead you will ahve to use your imagination...

ok, to start at the beginning... I mean the beginning. robertsport, was one of the first settler towns of Liberia. The first president of Liberia, was called something Roberts, or Robert something. Either way, the story is, that he was a merchant from Virginia, and sailing along the coast of, what is now LIberia, he saw a very large cotton tree, and decided to land there (I saw named cottontree...). So the whole town has an air of settlement, the houses are very particular, and has a "colonial" atmosphere to it. It is very nice. And it is set in a BEAUTIFUL area.

On one side of town you have lake Piso, with all its little islands in it, on the far side of this lake, you can see a beach and forrest, and if you should chose to cross the lake, and through the forrest, you will be in Sierra Leone. When you then follow, the river, through the road in town, you pass a big hill, with a church build i 1837, which is 10 years before the state of Liberia, you have the ocean. And oh my. It is beautiful. When you stand at the top of the hill, or on the beach, you have all of this amazing blue ocean in front of you, you have the lake on your right, on your left you have miles and miles of beautiful beach, and behinde you you have a mountain full of forrest. It is gorgeous! nothing less.

We stayed at a place called nana's Lodge, it is basically very NICE tents on the hill side, straight down to the beach. The tents all have a little porch, with an ocean view. wooden floors, and two twin beds. So it was a nice break away from our regular setting. And by no means was it a camping trip. It was all about relaxing, the only downside (and I mention it, just to get it out of the way), was the food. I mean, I got crab and lobster... which sounds pretty nice, but is was cooked very badly, and the rice and frensh fries, that came with it, had basically no flavour, except from oil. Ok, that said, we move on to more nice things.

Sam and I went for a walk saturday afternoon, into the town, it was very nice, and people vere super friendly, a couple of boys were walking with us, and telling us about the place (hence the story of Robertsport). After we came back, basically the entire evening was about relaxing. Sunday mmorning, we went for a hike. Oh my. We walked for about 2 hours, which might not sound like much, but I was beat after. We started out walking up the hill and into the forrest, it was quite amazing, I love walking in between trees and small water streams. we didn't encounter any number of animals, a flying squerrel was all it amounted too. But it was quite a beautiful trip, and we did come across some quite ineresting fruits, that I have forgoten the names of. For the last 15 minutes of teh forrest hike, we could hear the ocean hitting the beach, the waves sounded crazy. So we enden up coming down this quite steep hill, and through the beach bush, and just like that... we were standing on this log white desereted beach. With the ocean on one side, and this mountain full of forrest on the other. It was almost a prehistoric view. like Jurassic park meets Robinson Cruso. I don't know how to explain it, but this is a movie scene! so walking on the beach, there is down under the hill of forrest, this small "lake" of water, it is so pretty (I really need to find a way toshow pictures) and its like, you have this small lagoon of water, under all this forrest, the white sand, adn then the massive surfer waves in the other side. There are no words!
Our guides told us that the monkies from the forrest comes down to catch the crabs on the beach every morning, so any time you are there, take this hike, very early. Oh, and in the sand we saw traces of a sea turtle...
Anyways, this beach is so secluded for seveal reasons, one would be, that there is a wall of giant black rocks coming on the beach from town, and this way. So that meant, that we would go do some small rock climbing. And I am telling you. The rocks were so dark, like coal black (koksgrå, når de var helt tørre) and on it were all of these green plants with very purple flowers on them. again, it was amazing, and the green was so fresh, with the sun cominon it, so the contrasts in colors were amazing.
So we walked for about 1½ km on the beach, maybe a little more, and the whole thing was just breath taking. several times I stopped to turn around and just take it in. I took so many mental pictures, I really just want to keep the memory of that Liberia too.
OH, we walked back, in the burning sun... Bad idea, so I drank a litre of water, went to put on my bathing suit, and went in the water for about an hour. And the water. Oh. it is perfect, It is worm, it is clear, and it is salty enough that you can float, but not so salty that you cannot stay in it for a long time. And when you pass the area where the waves break, you can just lie right there in the water, and hardly move. You can float... I was seriously in the water for 1 full hour, and I hardly moved out of the place, and I also didn't notice that I was in the water for 1 hour. So I send my thanks to seanans sun screen, it is very good!

anyways, I think that sums up our weekend, more or less. Oh, no. Hehe, getting to Robertsport, was no so hard, since we left Monrovia in the morning hours. But going back, when you are not leaving in the morning hours... That is a different thing. But somehow things always works out (is should be said, that people going to Robertsport, usually have their own (or their organisations /UN) SUV), so some guy who worked at the lodge, went with us to the town, where they found a car going to town. Trouble was, that the car was basically full, except for 2 seats, and we were 4. So, after a lot of confusion, two guys were on the roof, and we were in the back, on some wooden benches, and of we went. The confusion was, that the owner of the car apparently had been called by the gy who took us there to carry us, but the driver had taken other passengers on board, so the owner asked these passengers to leave the car to make room for us, but it was a 10 seat car, and we had no intention of paying for 10 seats. So he asked them to come back, but they were pretty angry about being put of the car... oih. But it worked out, we all got in (I think) and we took off. and it wasn't too bad riding in the back, I have troed worse. But a seat would ahve been nice. I am just happy that I am short, I think seanan had some trouble curling ehr legs up on the spare tire... :)

either way, we made it back, we went to town and had dinner. Oh so nice, fast food, like burgers and sandwiches etc (we had spend less money on the trip, that budgeted, so we spend it on dinner last night)...

so Robertsport, is also Liberia, I figured you needed a story of something else, than the constant struggle in monrovia. Liberia is a beautiful country -O!

onsdag den 12. november 2008

realization of time

Ok, so I am up and about again, it took me a week almost. One week. And I had to give in, I spend a WHOLE day just in bed. God that is boring... Yesterday I was up small, and today I am out!!! yeeey.
I just went to see someone I meet on the camp first time I was there. She was very happy to see me, so now that makes me feel a bit better. I have been here so long without calling her, and I felt somewhat bad about that, but I went, and tried to explain why I have been in Liberia for more than one month without seeing her... hmm. Well a lot to do... Arg, bad bad Charlotte...
But what I have rediscovered during my sick days... Yesterday i took Dube (the puppy) for a small walk up the hill behind our house. From there you have a very nice view of the area. And my... It is SO beautiful. This country. I am telling you. It is beautiful. I cannot wait till i get to go to the interior and go see the waterfall and maybe do a small hike. Oh, I have seen Seanans pictures, if they don't lie, this place is beautiful!

Anyways, now I have been looking at my time, and I realize, I have about 6 weeks back in Liberia. 6 weeks, huh. I left dk in July, then all of the sudden I was going to Liberia, and now all of the sudden, I am half way through my stay here... It is going quite fast... So now I really have to start on my fieldwork again. huh, well i guess that means I would have stopped at some time, which I have not, well with the exception of the last week spend in bed. But there I learned how Liberians react when someone is sick. I have had just about everybody worried sick themselves. And nomatter how often I say, i am going to be fine, they don't really seem to believe me when I won't go to the clinic. "but I have a virus, a cold, they cannot do anything about that, I just need to rest". Well since I am not a doctor how can I know that.... Ohhhh. well, now I am better, and they are starting to believe me, since they can see that I am now able to walk again. So that was my littel fieldwork on illness, which I hope not to repeat.
But I do need to get on with my interviews. They always provide me with something extra. I mean I need the interviews, definetly, but I need all the other information just as well. I really hope that all the info I get from people just talking will qualify as valid material, becuase that is really a good source... People talk so much, and they say so much they are not aware off. I hope I am not over interpreting, but I guess that would be my privilege if I am. I get to really hear what people say, and see how they act. And that is what my method is all about, isn't it. well at least according to Bourdieu. Åh, how I do love that guy... :) He just should have learned to write, so regular people could understand it. I hate reading that stuff. But once you know what he is saying, it gets faily simple I guess. Oh, I hope I remember right, since I am going home to read him...
was just looking through my calender yesterday, trying to plan the workprocess of my thesis.. ohhh, I got a bit stressed. I have quite a lot of interviews to transcribe.. any volunteers to take over that little project, liberian english really isn't THAT hard... ohhh. it takes for ever!!! I hate transcribing, which is the sole reason I am so heistant about making interviews. They tend to be semi long, which is good, but oh, that means a day of transcribing each time... meaning so far I have 8 days of transcribing in fromt of me, and I still have about 8 interviews to go... OH no...
But at least my "depression" about my methodology etc seems to have gone, but maybe that is just pure neglience. I think maybe I should be worried, but I have deciede that my worrying will bring me nothing but a headace, and I can really do with out a headace these days. So the worry is over. Now I enjoy my last weeks in Liberia. :) And then I worry when I get home. I mean that is what the whole thesis writing period is for anyway, isn't it??

oh, one funny story before I leave you for now..
I was listening to the state radio the other day.. that was interesting...
They have a 45 minutes news block. that means repeating the same 5 news for 45 minutes.. But hehe, it also includes a segment of the news in french... AND, this is the great thing, in SIMPLE LIBERIAN English. So anyone ever telling you that English and Liberian englsish is the same, "They li - O" and the state radio even adds a simple liberian english, meaning there must be a complicated liberian English also. which there is, because the simple Liberian English newscast, I got, every single word, but I don't get the spoken liberian english on the street. Well at least not every word of it.

5 whole f...... days in bed!

Monrovia November 9.... What .. Nov. 9?!?!


Oh well. None the less. I need to complaint. Not so much about Liberia, Liberians or Monrovia for that matter. But about my health, or lack off (No need to worry, since at posting time, I will be up and about again)... Meaning that I cannot remember the last time I was confined to my bed due to illness, I mean, I live in god damn Denmark where it is cold and raining more than half the year and I don't get sick. But what happened when I go to Liberia and the dry season hit... Oh year. I get a fever and the worst cold I have had in years. The fever is retrieving (small small) but the cold is overwhelming me. I hate both! When I have had a cold at home I just stay indoor, not in bed, for a day, maybe two if I stretch it (which is mostly due to laziness, of not wanting to bike around in winter weather, just in case...) but now I find myself in bed on the 3 day. 3 fucking days in my room!! I went and carried a mattress to the porch yesterday, because I thought I was feeling better, and I tried to wash. BAD idea!!! Today after taking some wonder drug that Seanan provided I got up again... Once again BAD idea. And I mean, it is not like I left the house, I went to get something do drink about 150 meters from my front door yesterday, and came right back... And that is it. I have stayed inside the walls of my, by now VERY small, apartment for 3 whole days. And I can sit here, and look out, - hehe - through the bars (for my security, I don't know how secure I feel having bars across all exits except the front door) that covers my window, at a very blue sky and green trees and hear kids playing, some crying (probably because they get beaten, but I don't even have the energy to get up and yell at the parents to stop). And it pisses me of! I hate being inside.
And very annoyingly Seanan went to Gbanga yesterday morning to go hiking with MD... ARRRGGGHHH. I want to go fucking hiking!!! I want to go around Liberia seeing the country side. I have been in Monrovia almost all the time I have been here, I have seen a lot of different aspects of the city - granted, but now I want to go OUT! At least next weekend we go to Robertsport. Which should have some amazing beaches. I better be well by then! Hehe, and... We are staying at this luxury tent “resort” Seanan has decided to spend money on a tent, and there is room to share, God bless her. ;)
I have seen pictures, and it looks NICE!!!! I am very exited, so now I have decided to stay in bed for one more day. And by Tuesday, I am out, maybe I need fresh and hot air, to clear my system... I mean being confined to a room and the same bed, even with windows open and changing the spread every day, it might keep the virus here. So one more day... Ohh, just writing it is devastating. I live, what.. 15 minutes walk from a very nice beach, and the water here. Oh it is worm and not at all salty. If it was not for the sun burning me in a minute, I could stay in it all day. It is so nice. I think it is one of the nicest beaches I have been to in a very long time. I mean it is not a bounty beach, it is the Atlantic ocean, but it is niiiice... huh, maybe worm water, salt water would make the cold go away... and the fever too. Hmm, maybe not. I hate having the flu. So much that I am now sharing it with everyone that might pass by this site... How crazy is that.
Well besides from me being sick, what has then happened since last... I have no idea. When was last? Hmm, well it was before the election, of that much I am sure. It was a quite interesting experience being here for the election. I mean I always follow it at home, but this time, I am in a “want to be America” country and I am living with an American. Either way, the country was beside itself. There were people writing “vote Obama” on walls around town. I guess they know how many American expads there are in this country. And people would come down the street and yell at Seanan, “hey Obama” in stead of the usual “hey, jew (meaning: my girl)”, “fine girl” or “small girl”. That was quite funny. I got stopped by several people, asking me what I thought of the election. And who I voted for. With regret (for the first time in my life) I had to say that “I am not an American”. For Seanan it is apparently the opposite. She says that for the first time in her life she is proud to state that she is American. That is something. So now we wait. And Seanan and I have vetoed that no one is allowed to speak bad of the president elect until after January 20th. Then we will see if he lives up to what we hope. I mean, the poor guy, there is absolutely now way he can. We all expect him to be the saviour (interpret anyway you want). How is any man able to live up to that. But he does prove, that the American people deserve more credit than I have given them through the past, mmmm 8 years... I really don't like the sitting president over there. But now there is light ahead of the tunnel. And I must say that I hope my own people will learn from the Americans – WHAT???, well I do. We NEED a new prime minister! Urgently! Unfortunately an election seem far off, at least from here. Oh, and what if we make a catastrophic mistake AGAIN and elect the WRONG person for the job. OH I don't think I could bear it. If I didn't have a fever already, I would certainly get one from that thought.
Oh well enough about illness and politics. But then it seems nothing has happened in my life. Huh. That is sad. Here I am across the world, compared to where I come from, and I have nothing to tell about it. I wonder why. Do I expect people to know what things are like, I mean most of those who read this has travelled like this themselves, or is it that I don't see how things are or don't find them interesting any more... Oh I hope not, that would be sad, since I am only half way in my fieldwork here. But how do I find out? I mean, I see the little things, and we talk about them, but I don't seem to be able to write them down, not even for my own notes. I need to try to explain my surroundings right? I mean, I can I write a thesis if I am unable to make people “see” the setting? Oh, I am a bad anthropologist. Well that is not my field any more, but maybe I should start pretending it is. It is the main method of that particular subject I have chosen to be my main method after all. I guess I have to start making descriptive notes. Hmm, a bit late. A good thing I am going back to Ghana... :)
Ok, both my head and my battery are giving up now. So this will continue some other time, with more interesting aspects, hopefully...

tirsdag den 4. november 2008

you know when you mind goes blank??

Well, I am sure there are a million things I should tell. But for some reason my mind is completly blank. I have seen a new form of prostitudes though. And actually I didn't know they were prostitites, because they looked like any girl going out in DK. Low cut jeans, no panties... last one there should have given it away - I am in liberia... But anyways, it wasn't untill Sam commented on a pair of trousers of mine hanging low the other day, and comparing me to this particualr girl, that I was informed she was a prostitute... I went inside and put a belt in the trousers immediatly after. I get enough attention already...
Well what was new about these girls were, that they didin't wear next to no clothes, and they didn't stand in front of a mirror dancing with themselves, trying to find out how much they could sex up their bodies... They danced and had fun, just like the rest of us, manybe not quite a ugly as seanan and I were able to, but still, it was far from the " I stand here and sway my body in any sexual position I know" that most other prostitutes practice.

besides from that, I don't think there has been any new discoveries lately. I am supposed to be transcribing right now, buuuttt... my fieldwork is going ok, I get a bit done most days. I am not super productive, but I blame the heat for that. I have hit somewhat of a dry spot though. I mean, I have some interviews lined up and that will be fine. But besides that, I am feeling that I am done. I know I am not. But my mind is blank. I have lost my creativity (again, I blame the heat) and I sometimes looses focus a bit (this I blame myself for).
I don't know. I suddenly don't remember what I am supposed to do on a fieldwork... Any suggestios?
I try to get around to meet the returnees, and sunday I even went to a meeting in the newly established (read in the rocess of establishing) Liberian Returnee Association. The interesting element here, was that all the returness that had shown up were from Buduburam... I guess they do have some special drive, and connection...
I still sometimes try to analyse both the situations and my notes. I don't describe to much, that migh be something I shoud try to sit down and do... Hmm. Anyways, I feel I get caught in my analysis, since I usually always end up in the same place - the returnees from Buduburam are having a hard time (I think all returnees have a hard time) and they are creating an imagined community betweeen them. No matter how well they knew eachother on camp, they feel closer here and the only difference between refugee and returnee is that they are home. But they do feel more free here, and see several opportunities, after they finish listing all the immidiate challenges... so where does that leave my fieldwork, and how do I write this in 50-75 pages???

So back to the blank mind.......

billeder/ pictures

well...
Since I cannot figure out how you put the function, where there is a link to all pictures on your blog, then instead....
I have uploaded pictures from Liberia here...
http://picasaweb.google.dk/charlottetorp/Liberia#